I would probably mix it with a little more gas before you run it. First of all, a full bottle is more than adequate enough to treat a full tank of gas on a car/truck which average about 13-15 gallons. Second of all, most gas additives ARE NOT approved for two stroke engines. Did you poor it into a can or straight into the tank? What kind of sled is it?

It will most likely be fine. The dry gas is more combustable than gasoline and will burn hotter. Too much of it could cause pre-det. and that can be a huge problem with twins or triples if there is accidental ignition on both cylinders if the timing is off. Sometimes all it takes is for your spark plug to get hot and ignite whatever fuel is left in the cylinder that is on its way back up. If pre-detonation occurs and ignites in the cylinder on its way back up before it reaches top dead center, then you will have too much force on your crank. Also if the mixture is TOO combustable it can create too powerful of an explosion and the compression level in your cylinders can get too high for your pistons, rings, head, or gaskets to handle. You might be fine since dry gas isnt really too powerul, and mixing with a low octane like 87 shouldnt bring the combustability up too high for your engine to handle. Some additives specificly state "not for use in two cycle engines". A friend of mine used some kind of gas additive that is sapposed to clear deposits and sludge and what it did was break down the pre-mix oil in his tank. Snowmobiles are much more bulletproof than dirtbikes and the gas isnt mixed until it is carbureted into the engine so the additives wouldnt have enough time to break down the pre-mix anyway.

If I were you, I would run it easier than you normally would and keep adding gas to you tank as soon as it is used to keep diluting the dry gas. I would also start running 93 pump instead of the 87. Its should make the sled run better and reduce the chance of freezing. Some pump gas has diluting additives so that they can make more money and is then more susceptible to freezing. Either get gas somewhere else or just stick to 93 pump.

Does your sled have the carb. heating feature? Most ski-doo's I've seen have them, and sometimes people dont even realize it and leave it on or off at all times. Unless you're in EXTREME low temperatures, the carb heat setting is not necessary and can actually cause condensation and get water into the system. Also, it warms your fuel and therefore makes it less combustable and robs you of some power.

-- Edited by TeflonDeF at 21:59, 2009-02-02

It would just be a hose running from the head down behind the carburetor and will have a red on-off knob in the middle of the hose.

The base gasket blew out when you tried to start it, or when you were riding?

I'm really sorry to hear that, I tried to help you out. Base gaskets are pretty beefy and it takes a lot to blow one, therefore consider yourself EXREMELY lucky that the only damage done is a 5 to 15 dollar gasket. Since you have to tear it apart, I would at LEAST thoroughly clean the powervalves and replace the piston rings to get more compression and power. Or I would at MOST replace the pistons, hone the cylinders, and clean the Powervalve. You should replace the head gasket as well. Drain that gas and run 93 pump from now on, and just be extra careful to never get any snow in the tank.

Honestly, that question is almost impossible to answer. There are a lot of things that cause base gasket blow-out. The most common causes are- a cheap junk gasket, a re-used gasket(which is a ridiculous thing to do and its sad how many people try it), a simple breakdown from heat and usage due to the fact that it hasnt been replaced in a while, defective gasket, gasket damaged during installation, surface of the engine base or cylinder base being dirty or damaged when the gasket was installed, improper installation(you need to clean the surfaces that make contact with the gasket and leave no residue from any cleaning agent if one is used. You also need to gradually torque down the cylinder bolts in a criss-cross pattern to ensure that they are all even and you could even go the extra mile of using a torque wrench and torquing them exactly to the manufacturers specifications, but that isnt imperative) ,and last but not least is improper break in procedure. You need to do a thorough break in procedure to prolong the life of the piston and and to make sure the rings seat, and most people forget that part of the process is to re-torque the bolts after the 2 or 3rd heat cycle, since most gaskets sort of "melt" into place and then need to be correctly torqued down again. Also, sometimes the bolts can loosen after some time and the cylinder isnt pressing down with enough force to prevent leakage, and once it starts leaking the gasket is ruined.

You might not fix it this year? We definitely have a lot of snow still to come for the year, if you do the work yourself it wont cost much at all, and it wont take more than 1 day to fix. When you do decide to fix it, are you going to replace anything else?

i just put a new piston rings gaskets etc. in the first week of december.and made sure the base was all clean before putting on the gasket and the sled ran great then it just radnolmy blew out. and the only problem with fixing it this year is i need to wait for a sunny day because i have no place indoors to work on it so i cant work in the middle of a snowstorm. thanks again for the help. and if i fix it this year i cant replace anything but gaskets because i dont have the money too do anything else.

-- Edited by shafferj97 at 23:24, 2009-02-02

Oh and I wanted to ask, are you one of the guys that swears by using gasket glue/liquid gasket? Also, this has nothing to do with your problem, but did you oil your piston and rings before you sled them into the cylinders?